“When someone was pregnant in our village, we were told to bring bird meat,” says Sanatan as we return from a wonderful late afternoon boat ride in Manglajodi. I had asked him what happened before the Mahavir Pakshi Surakhya Samiti (Bird Protection Committee) organized boats with guides for travelers eager to explore this sanctuary for birds. Noticing my disbelief, he quickly added that they believed exotic bird meat provided women with the added strength needed during pregnancy.
Sanatan tells me that most of the fishermen used to sell bird meat during the winter for extra income. The roadside dhabas were a favorite among locals, where you could choose your exotic meat. But everything changed in 1999 when Nandakishore Bhujbal, a nature lover pained by his personal experiences, vowed to stop the hunting of birds. He spoke to the villagers and convinced them that there was a better alternative to killing; as protectors of these winter guests, they could earn even more money than by selling bird meat. By this time, the communities of Mangalajodi had gained the reputation of being referred to as “bird poachers.”
Sanatan still remembers how every day Mr. Bhujbal would arrive at dawn to help them spot and identify birds and their habitats. His dedication meant that within a year or two, he received help from other NGOs and donors, leading to the formation of the Manglajodi Ecotourism Trust (MET). In the following years, MET, with the help of locals, managed to conserve wetland biodiversity by curbing poaching activities and sustaining livelihoods through income-generating opportunities via ecotourism.
Looking across at other boats meandering peacefully through hidden waterways and reeds, some with photographers seemingly frozen in anticipation of their next National Geographic Wildlife Photographer of the Year shot—it seems unimaginable that this region had such a gruesome past. Gazing at Sanatan’s weather-beaten face, I sense he is much happier now. As if he read my thoughts, Sanatan tells me that just last week, they had a group of German and Italian tourists. “If it weren’t for this work, where would a person like me, who is barely literate, get to meet people from around the world?” He credits his entire success, from learning about avifauna to dealing with guests to Mr. Bhujbal. As the boat ride comes to an end, I spot herons, bitterns, grebes, cormorants, shags, egrets, storks, ibises, geese, ducks, raptors, and pheasants, making it one of the best bird-watching spots in all of Chilika.
Manglajodi and its boatmen still face challenges like low income during the off-season and sporadic cases of poaching due to the vast area and inadequate funds for patrolling. Bringing Mangalajodi under the Wildlife Protection Act would provide legal backing to the community’s protection efforts. However, with a steady flow of eco-conscious tourists and the right policies, their future looks bright.
So when are you coming to Manglajodi?
Good to Know
Best Time:November – February
Boating with Guide: Twice a day | Early Morning & Late Afternoon. Life jackets are provided.
Duration: 2.5 hours
How to Reach: From Svanir Wilderness Ecostay, it takes about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
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