The temple town of Bhubaneswar probably developed around the Lingaraja Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. According to historians, it’s said the city had originally built 7,000 temples over 700 years. At present only about 200 survive encompassed by the modern ‘smart city’ with lofty aspirations. Bhubaneswar also bears witness to Buddhism’s fruitful tryst under Emperor Kharavela. His artistic accomplishments are glimpsed at the impressive Udayagiri and Khandagiri caves, about 6 km from the capital. Three monasteries at Ratnagiri, Udayagiri and Lalitgiri, about 100 km from the capital have also been excavated and are worth your time when travelling here.
Apart from temples, the city has several of India’s top academic institutions, man-made gardens, and biotechnology parks. Perhaps it is the only capital city in India with a wildlife sanctuary within its city limits. Spurred by the rich tribal heritage of the state, Bhubaneswar has two dedicated museums where visitors can see and experience what the state has to offer in terms of their unique ethnic lifestyle, art, culture and handicrafts.
Itinerary
Keeping Svanir as a base in Bhubaneswar several easygoing itineraries are possible to discover the rich beauty of Odisha.
4NTS/5DAYS
Day 1 Arrive Bhubaneswar
Arrive at Bhubaneswar and transfer to Svanir Wilderness Ecostay to be welcomed by your host.
A brief introduction to your surroundings. Take a moment to settle in, whether that be in the tranquility of your own room or the serene beauty of the garden areas. In the late afternoon, make your way to the majestic Khandagiri and Udaygiri caves, where you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset from the hilltop. This experience promises to be a delightful and memorable one, as you immerse yourself in the rich history and natural beauty of these ancient caves. These rock-cut caves were built for Jain monks sometime during the 1st and 2nd centuries BC. They also feature the lithic record of 13 years of Kalinga King Kharavela’s reign.
On the way back, stop at an independent book shop. We’ll most likely get to chat with the owners about their incredible journey and see their eclectic book collection (many fantastic books by Odia authors as well). (Closed on Monday)
Day 2 Bhubaneswar Sightseeing
After an early breakfast head to Old Town to see why Bhubaneswar is known as the Temple town. Visit to Lingaraj Temple, Muktesewar Temple, Pasuramenswar Temple, Raja Rani Temple and a few hidden jewels which you will come to know about on the walk (traffic temple?)
Insider Tip: Try the authentic Odia snack locally called at Kora Khai (Odia version of caramelized popcorn) at a 100-year-old shop.
Mahashivratri, occurring around the 26th of February in 2025, heralds a unique and culturally rich experience in the Old Town area. The venerable temple precincts will be adorned with intricate rangolis, creating a mesmerizing ambiance. On the auspicious day of Shivratri, throngs of devout followers will gather, illuminating the surroundings with flickering candlelight, converging in reverence around the serene waters of Bindu Sagar pond.
A visit to the Herbal Garden is a nice way to end your time in the Old Town. From here you can view the peak of the Lingaraja Temple from across the holy pond of Bindusagar. Relax and hear the folklore and stories about Ekamra Kshetra.
After exploring the temples, we head to Kala Bhoomi
The museum celebrates the craftsmanship of our artisans by putting on display their breath-taking masterpieces.
http://odishacraftsmuseum.odisha.gov.in
It’s almost lunchtime. The museum has a wonderful open Dhaba serving Odia cuisine. We sample a variety of dishes and talk about ‘recipes of the soil’.
From Kala Bhoomi we head to a beautiful space where you can witness all the rich art and handicraft that Odisha has to offer under one roof. This is an outlet for the women self-help group who are supported by the government. Browse their collection of handmade products and maybe pick up some souvenirs. The shop also has a wonderful cafe serving Koraput Coffee, Odisha’s very own coffee grown in the hills of Koraput.
Day 3 Puri & Konark
After breakfast, today is an early morning drive to Puri (2hrs) to see life outside the most visited temples in India, the Lord Jagannath Temple. But before reaching Puri will make a stop at the art village of Raghurajpur.
This artist village is known for its Pattachitra paintings, palm leaf engravings, and traditional Odissi dance and music. Interact with the local artisans, watch them create their masterpieces and try your hand at painting.
After the village visit, we head to Puri to be amazed by the sea of pilgrims who travel from all over India to Jaganath Temple. The Jagannath Temple is one of the Char Dham Pilgrims’ for Hindus. Lord Jagannath is regarded as a non-sectarian deity because of his manifestations in other religions (Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism).
The Ratha Yatra, a stunning annual function at the temple, is held every year. This temple and the Jagannath Puri Temple are approximately 3 km. The goddesses are returned to the main temple after a few days within Gundicha Temple. This place makes for an excellent place to do some street photography (faces of faith).
The area outside the main entrance to the temple makes for a great place to photograph people (faces of worship)
Juggernaut: a massive inexorable force, campaign, movement, or object that crushes whatever is in its path
Origin: The English word juggernaut in the sense of “a huge wagon bearing an image of a Hindu god” is from the seventeenth century, inspired by the Jagannatha Temple in Puri, Odisha (Orissa), which has the Ratha Yatra (“Temple car procession”), an annual procession of chariots carrying the murtis (images)
Merriam Webster Dictionary
Insider Tip: Don’t miss the famous Chhena Gaja when in Puri.
Chhena Gaja is a popular sweet made with chhena (cottage cheese), semolina, sugar, and cardamom. It is deep-fried to achieve a golden-brown color and then soaked in sugar syrup. We will sample this delicious, sweet at a very famous shop.
From Puri we leave for Konark driving along the beautiful marine drive to see The Konark Sun Temple (1hr). ( en route lunch at Konark)
On the shores of the Bay of Bengal, bathed in the rays of the rising sun, the temple at Konark is a monumental representation of the sun god Surya’s chariot; its 24 wheels are decorated with symbolic designs, and it is led by a team of six horses.
Optional: Sound and Light show at Konark. (around 7pm)
Insider’s Tip: Try to include the Konark Dance festival if you are coming in December
The Konark Dance Festival is a week-long celebration of classical dance held in the backdrop of the magnificent Sun Temple in Konark. Renowned dancers from across the country showcase their talent in various classical dance forms, including Odissi, Bharatanatyam, Kathak, and more.
Overnight at Konark
Day 4 Konark, Pipli & Shanti Stupa
Today morning we have the option to head to revisit the Konark Sun Temple in the early morning light which is perfect for photography or for the adrenaline junkie we have a option to learn paddling on water.
This 3-4hrs activity is targeted for beginners where they can experience ‘Walking on Water’. Professional instructors will assist to progress from balancing on a surfboard to paddling on water. Seasoned surfers can also hit the waves. This activity can also be combined with lunch at their camp site.
From here we start our journey back towards Svanir and Bhubaneswer but not before making two interesting stops; Pipli & Shanti Stupa, Dhauli
Pipili, also known as the “Appliqué Village,” is a charming town located in the Puri district of Odisha, India. It is famous for its exquisite appliqué handicrafts, where artisans create colorful fabrics using traditional techniques. The vibrant textiles are used for canopies, banners, umbrellas, and festival decorations. Pipili’s streets are adorned with these intricate designs, making it a must-visit destination for those interested in cultural heritage and artistic expression
The Dhauli hill, where the Shanti Stupa is located, is significant for being the presumed battleground of the Kalinga War in 261 BCE. The war’s aftermath was so gruesome that the River Daya turned red with the blood of the slain. This event had a profound impact on Emperor Ashoka, who was filled with remorse after witnessing the destruction his conquests had caused.
Dhauli hosts the annual Kalinga Mahotsav, a festival that celebrates martial dance and promotes peace over war, symbolically held at the location that once witnessed the horrors of conflict.
Reach Svanir by evening and after an early dinner retire to your rooms for a good night sleep.
Day 5 Fly Back
It’s time to say our goodbyes before we head to the airport to head home.
Addons
Cooking Lesson with Indrani at Svanir
According to the time of the season, Indrani will curate a typical Odia menu at Svanir which will start from picking up fresh vegetables from the market and using them to create simple recipes which you would easily be able to recreate at home.
This will be a half-day session followed by lunch.
64 Yogini Temple, (20mins drive from Old Town)
The 64-yogini temple is a type of ancient Hindu temple, dedicated to the worship of the yoginis or the manifestations of the mother goddess in Hindu mythology. The temple gets its name from the 64 carved stone or black basalt figures of the yoginis arranged in a circular pattern around the main shrine. The temples are believed to have been built between the 9th and 12th centuries and are characterized by their unique circular shape and open-air design.
Details: http://shorturl.at/osG69
Full day excursion to the artist Village of Nuapatna and Dhokra works (2 hrs drive)
Another interesting excursion that travelers love, is to spend a day at the weaving village of Nuapatna, located about 60 kms away from the homestay. Immediately upon arrival, there is thread everywhere you look. Houses after houses in this village are engrossed in the making sarees which can take anywhere between one week to several months to weave depending on the complexity of the design. A saree fabric can be up to 12-metres long, which is far too long to fit inside a house. In order to bind, dye and dry the warp threads, weavers take their work to the streets. The designs on the textiles are inspired by ceremonial and meaningful imagery. You can spend several hours gazing over one saree as geometric designs, figures and even mythological stories are woven into its pattern. On a particular trip to Nuapatna we accompanied a guest from North India who was coming to see the progress of a saree which she had commissioned. The design had Pali inscriptions which pronounced themselves along the border of the fabric, while the main body had symbols representing the festival of Ratha Yatra (Chariot Festival at Puri).
If you haven’t overstayed your time at the village, we stop at the bank of the river to enjoy a beautiful sunset sipping freshly made masala chai. Otherwise on our way back we stop at the Dokra Village to see the metal being brought to life. These friendly villagers will be more than happy to show you the process as it happens.
Full Day Excursion to Lalitgiri, Ratanagiri & Udaygiri
As the story goes, two Ukkala (part of present- day Odisha) merchants, Tapassu and Bhallika, were on their way to Central India with 500 carts of honey. On their way they met Buddha, who had gained enlightenment only a few weeks ago in Bodh Gaya. The merchants offered honey and rice cakes to Buddha and were gifted with eight strands of his hair in return. Through this chance encounter, Tapassu and Bhallika not only became the first Odishan Buddhists, they also introduced Buddhism to their homeland. It is also believed that the merchant duo later went to Ceylon and then Burma to promote Buddhism. In fact, the eight strands of Buddha’s hair currently enshrined in the magnificent Shwedagon Stupa at Yangon is believed to have been brought over from Kalinga to Burma by none other than Bhallika himself.
Buddha perhaps never set foot in Odisha. However, he would have had little to worry about the spread of Buddhism in the State. Odisha (with its various parts referred to historically as Odra, Ukkala, Utkala and Kalinga) had subsequently become a seat of Buddhist teaching and learning. After Buddha’s death. Buddhism dispersed across Odisha’s landscape through learning centers and monasteries. Located in caves and hills next to steady flowing rivers, they provided much needed isolation for meditation and dis- course. According to the Buddhist text, Mahaparinibbana Sutta, one of Buddha’s body-relic (ie, saririras) was his left canine tooth that was given to the Kalinga kings. It is this very tooth relic that later made its way across the sea to Ceylon (Sri Lanka), hidden in the hair oma- ment of Hemamala, daughter of Kalinga king Guhashiva. When I had visited the ornamentally opulent Dalada Tooth Temple in Kandy, this Odisha connection was unknown to me.
Though the spread of Buddhism from India to South and South-east Asia is well known, Odisha’s significant role in that transmission remains unfamiliar to the majority of the people in the State. It is understandable. The epie Kalinga war and the pyrrhic victory that converted Chandashoka to Dhammashoka had pressed the reset button in Odisha’s history turning over a new leaf, Ashoka made Buddhism a State religion and made significant investments in Buddhist sites in India. Thus ensured mushrooming of Buddhist monasteries in Odisha. *
* The museum at Lalitgiri & Ratnagiri remains closed on FRIDAY.
Photo Walks in Bhubaneswar & Beyond
Soumya has been conducting walks for his clients for many years now. He specializes in street photography and has many favourite corners and interesting locations which he has scouted through his walks.
We can spend half a day or full day depending on your interest and how far we are traveling.
Generally, people in Odisha are very friendly, so it makes for a perfect place to do street photography
Soumya Mukherji
Please respect copyright material and our hard work
If you like the above itinerary and want to give your clients the best experience, it would be prudent to work with us.
All the above information is collected through in-depth research and personally visiting each of the places mentioned above. The stories we tell are our cumulative effort as a local living in Odisha for more than 10 years. We are passionate about our city, and it translates in our work.
If you want to use any of the images used here or want to commission us for a project, we are open to talks 🙂
Your Stay in Bhubaneswar
Svanir Wilderness Ecostay
Svanir (meaning ‘Own Nest’) is an eco-friendly wilderness homestay hiding in plain sight on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar. Four spacious cottages constructed from locally available material, mimic traditional tribal architecture and provides for an ideal getaway for the weary traveler.
Why Stay with Us:
- Svanir is located in a rural setting away from the mad city rush, providing a peaceful environment for guests to relax and connect with nature.
- The homestay is a labour of love for the family, with every aspect of it designed to promote sustainability and eco-friendliness. The cottages are built using locally sourced materials, and the homestay features many conservation features like rainwater harvesting and greywater harvesting and drip irrigation systems.
- We employ and train locals and aim for ‘inclusive development’ by employing all our staff from our neighboring village.
- Stay with a local family; Our most memorable trips have been where we had the opportunity to stay with locals. Locals are passionate about their city and often share insights that a cut and dry city guide might not be able to provide. When visiting a new city, we often have apprehension about food, stay and what not to miss. It will be our pleasure to share with you our experiences and make your stay as comfortable as possible.
Activities:
- Village Walk: A trail which takes you to our neighbouring village to interact with the locals. It’s a window into the simple life of villagers who will welcome you with open arms.
- Safari at Chandaka: Chandaka Dampara Sanctuary is a treasure house of biodiversity. The park is known for successful conservation of elephants which is the principal species here.
(Duration: 1hr Safari in a 8 seated canters: Rs 1060)
- Trees R Us: A walk inside Svanir led by your host talking about nature, trees and indigenous knowledge.
On Special Request:
- Cooking Lesson with Indrani: A half a day experience followed by lunch where Indrani will curate a typical Odia menu for you which you can easily replicate at home.
- Learn Pattachitra: A session with a Pattachitra artist from Raghurajpur can be organised where you will try your hand at creating your own masterpiece and take back something tangible.
- Photo Walks: Depending on your clients interests Soumya can lead photo walk through the alleyway of Old Town or capture the buzz of activity at the wholesale market.
- Excursions to handicrafts clusters: As mentioned above in the addons for clients interested in learning about the rich art and craft heritage of Odisha, special trips can be arranged to see the Dorka, Ikat, Pattachitra, Terracotta and daily utensils made of Sal leaves.
Website: http://www.svanir.com