Documenting Odisha / Travel

Beyond Jirang

As we meandered through the winding roads, the lively drapery of mystic prayer flags, inscribed with ancient chants on stones, and diminutive Buddha stupas, unfolded before our eyes, signaling our arrival at the enchanting Chandragiri. Young monks whizzed by on mopeds, their bright smiles and infectious laughter brought a smile on our faces as we passed them. A little further down the road, we spotted a group of little monks giggling and haggling with a shopkeeper, their bright faces permeated a carefree innocence.

As we reached our destination, a smiling Mr. Tenzing, accompanied by Messi (a beautiful German Shepherd) welcomed us with open arms. The instant connection between my son and Messi was a heartwarming sight, as they ran and played together, filling the air with joyous laughter. After settling into our cozy guesthouse, Mr. Tenzing enthralled us with tales of the Chandragiri and it’s past.

The next morning, we set out for the holy Jirang Monastery. Our visit had serendipitously coinciding with the vibrant Losar festival. As we wandered through the monastery, we found ourselves alone, engulfed by an aura of profound peace and belonging. My son, unfettered by the constraints of time, revelled in the freedom to explore, his laughter and giggles echoing through the corridors.

The monastery’s picturesque lake, with the majestic statue of Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche, at its center, was a visual delight. The lake was surrounded by colorful prayer flags that seemed to flutter in abandonment  . As I gazed upon the statue, my curiosity was piqued, and I sought out answers from an elderly gentleman seated by the lake who seemed to be a local.

He seemed very happy to have someone to talk to and began as a wise man who has escaped from the shackles of time to tell the tale of Padmasambhava, a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from medieval India, who had introduced Vajrayana to Tibet in the 8th century. According to legend, he was summoned by King Thī-srong-detsan in 747 and arrived at Samye, where he is said to have vanquished demons that were hindering the construction of a Buddhist monastery. The revered Guru Rinpoche, associated with the taming of demons and spirits, as well as longevity rituals and water magic, maintains a sacrosanct standing in the hearts of the Tibetan settlers in Chandragiri.

As the sun began its descent, I reluctantly bid farewell to the lake, but the day had one more surprise in store for us. As we drove away, glimpsed  a breathtaking sunset, against the backdrop of the Eastern Ghats, with the colorful prayer flags in the foreground whispering their silent prayers to the wind. We stopped, mesmerized by the spectacle, and as we gazed in awe, passersby, too, paused, wondering what had captured our attention. The beauty of the moment was lost on them, but not on us – a poignant reminder that sometimes the most exquisite experiences in life are free, yet often overlooked.

To be continued…

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